BrazelBerries® Raspberry Shortcake™
Rubus idaeus 'NR7' PP#22,141
Remember when Blueberry Sunshine Blue® took the gardening world by storm, with its compact habit, fragrant blooms, and abundant berries? Well, now there is a much more beautiful and amazing phenomenon known as the BrazelBerries® -- a collection of edible ornamentals with ever-changing foliage colors, small plant sizes (just right for containers!), and plenty of yummy fruit! Meet Raspberry Shortcake™, the first-ever dwarf raspberry for containers.
Raspberry Shortcake™ is a thornless variety with full-sized, yummy red fruit on plants that reach just 2 to 3 feet high and wide and have a dense, compact, tightly mounded habit. Goodbye, rangy canes that flop all over the place! Goodbye, punctured hands at harvest time! Raspberry Shortcake™ looks as good as its full-sized, bright red fruit tastes!
These berries have a flavor described as "vanilla essence," very sweet and meltingly tender. You can enjoy handfuls straight from the patio or even the urban balcony with Raspberry Shortcake™! And the plant always looks good -- dense and healthy.
Caring for Raspberry Shortcake™ is easy. It loves neutral soil (pH 6.5 - 7.5 is best) in full sunshine everywhere but the hottest climates. Good soil drainage is essential too. If you are growing it in a container, pick a big one -- anything 24 inches in diameter or larger is preferred, since this perennial will keep setting new canes and spreading.
Feed Raspberry Shortcake™ with a balanced fertilizer at the beginning of spring and again later in the season. Water it daily in containers. When winter arrives, it will go dormant, and should be left alone. The following spring, you'll begin to see green growth. Midway through spring, when the new growth is well-established, cut away any stems that do not show new growth. That's all there is to it!
If you like Raspberry Shortcake™ -- and you will, we promise! -- be sure to try the other BrazelBerries® as well. Developed by the Brazelton family of Oregon -- fruit growers for decades -- they are self-pollinating, so you need plant only one of any of the varieties for fruit. But chances are, once you see the BrazelBerries® in your garden, you'll simply have to have several! Enjoy the latest and most exciting phenomenon in edible ornamentals. Bring the BrazelBerries® home! Zones 5-9.
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- Tips to Attract Butterflies
- How to Grow
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- Butterflies like a lot of sunlight, so locate your garden in a sunny area.
- If you live in a windy location, plant your butterfly-attracting plants near a building, fence, or hedge to protect them.
- Plant a variety of nectar-rich plants, as well as shrubs and evergreens for shelter.
- Since many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved, try to put in some that are native to your area. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center provides lists of plants native to states and regions.
- Certain colors are particularly attracting to butterflies – red, yellow, pink, purple, or orange blooms that are clustered or flat-topped, with a short flower tubes are especially attractive to adult butterflies.
- Avoid using pesticides, especially around nectar-producing plants.
- Provide a shallow source of water – try a birdbath with pebbles lining the bowl.
- Place a rock in a sunny spot for butterfly basking and resting.
- Create a "puddling area" by digging a shallow hole filled with compost or manure where rainwater will collect and release essential salts and minerals.
- If you want butterflies to breed in your garden, put in some caterpillar food plants, such as parsley, milkweeds, asters, thistles, violets, clover, grasses, and Queen Anne’s Lace.
- Since butterflies need nectar throughout the entire adult phase of their lives, try to create a design that will allow for a continuous bloom – when one stops blooming, another starts.
Space 3 to 4 feet apart with rows 6 feet apart. Choose a sunny location, with a soil that has been well and deeply prepared with organic matter. Plants perform best when given support; the canes should be tied to a wide fence or strong wire strung between 2 posts. Cut back canes 9 to 12 inches.
After the first fruiting season, prune out the canes which have borne fruit, leaving the new canes to produce fruit the following year. These new canes should be thinned, cutting the weaker canes back to ground level and keeping the strongest, which should be tied on to the support structure.
In the case of everbearing raspberries, new canes should not be thinned; instead, cut them back to the top support wire (approximately 3 to 4 feet) the following spring. An annual application of 10-10-10 each spring will encourage optimum fruit production. (Later application might produce soft growth, subject to winter injury.) A year round mulch is beneficial and helps reduce weeds.
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