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Clematis 'Prince Charles'
Ideal for containers or growing through climbing roses.
'Prince Charles' is a New Zealand introduction. Often compared to C. 'Perle d'Azur,' it is far more compact than that variety, and with interestingly twisted petals that give the flowers greater depth. Very floriferous, it thrives even in the hot and humid south. The semi-nodding blooms, punctuated by a satiny sheen and contrasting chartreuse filaments and rich yellow anthers, are splendid draped over an arbor or dangling from a pillar or post, and make superb arrangements when floated in a bowl of water. They arise so profusely that you can cut armloads over the long season without worrying about "stripping" the vine of color!
Like most Clematis, 'Prince Charles' is easy to grow and widely adapted, provided it is given full sun on its foliage and protection for its roots. A heavy mulch is recommended, keeping the roots cool and moist throughout the growing season. It may take this vine a season or two to get established, but once the root system is in place, bloom is heavy, continuous, and glorious! Expect 'Prince Charles' to reach 6 to 8 feet long. Zones 4-9. Pruning Group III.
| Genus | Clematis |
| Variety | 'Prince Charles' |
| Bloom Season | Early Summer - Early Fall |
| Clematis Pruning Group | Group 3 |
| Habit | Vining |
| Zone | 4 - 9 |
| Plant Height | 6 ft - 8 ft |
| Plant Width | 6 ft - 8 ft |
| Bloom Size | 4 in |
| Item Form | Trade Gallon |
| Additional Characteristics | Rose Companions, Repeat Bloomer, Free Bloomer, Pruning Recommended, Flower |
| Bloom Color | Light Blue, Light Lavender |
| Foliage Color | Dark Green |
| Light Requirements | Full Sun, Part Shade |
| Moisture Requirements | Moist, well-drained |
| Resistance | Cold Hardy, Heat Tolerant |
| Soil Tolerance | Normal, loamy |
| Uses | Border, Containers, Cut Flowers, Outdoor, Vines and Climbers |
| Restrictions | CAN, HI, PR |
The Late Bloomers
Unlike other types of Clematis, Group 3 blooms on "new wood" (which
means the current season's growth; if you keep last year's flowering stems on the plant, they won't set buds). So, unless you live in a climate where your Clematis naturally dies back to the ground in winter, you must prepare yourself to whack off all the old stems in late winter/early spring down to about a foot from the ground, just above the place where the new season's growth begins.
"Forget it!" I hear you cry, remembering how you patiently helped your Clematis twine up the mailbox post last spring and were rewarded with a bloom show like none you'd ever experienced before in your life. I know; it seems harsh, especially for those of us in the south, who aren't used to plants that die back completely, then pop up again in spring more vigorous than ever. But if you'll take my word and remove all the old growth until you're left with a couple of stems about 12 inches from the ground, you won't be sorry. Look for the place where the stem changes color a bit — that will be where last season's growth began. Leave just an inch or two of that new color, cutting away the rest.
Once you know your Clematis's pruning number and get that first-year trim out of the way, keeping this woody climber looking its best and blooming like crazy is simple! A few minutes once a year will yield you armloads of flowers for many seasons, and you will continue to find new uses for Clematis, from hiding an unsightly fence to decorating your most formal garden art!
| Shop Clematis | Time to Prune? | Group 1 | Group 2 |
