This award-winner blooms from late spring to mid-fall!


Golden Showers Climbing Rose

Bareroot
Item # 45017
$21.95
Buy 3+ at $19.95 ea
Buy 6+ at $17.95 ea
Item is sold out.

Rosa 'Golden Showers'

HUGE 6-inch blooms!
The finest yellow climber we have ever grown, this AARS winner grows 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 feet wide, with fragrant, Daffodil-yellow buds opening to golden 6-inch blooms. A constant source of cheerful color from late spring to mid-fall, it is ideal as a pillar Rose.

The blooms are saturated with color and borne on strong stems just made for cutting -- although their garden impact is tremendous, too! Boasting a petal count of 20 to 30 and a scent that combines licorice and tea, they arise heavily early in the season, then repeat less strenuously into autumn. Often the very last Rose in bloom in the autumn garden, 'Golden Showers' never disappoints!

This large-flowered climber tolerates more shade than most other Roses, and is wonderfully disease resistant, cloaking itself in healthy, medium green foliage. Introduced in 1956 in the United States by Lammerts, it is the recipient of numerous awards, and has been a continuous favorite for decades. It is descended from R. 'Charlotte Armstrong' x R. 'Captain Thomas', outdoing both of its parents in bloom size, color, fragrance, and vigor! This is one climbing rose that is a must-have for anyone wanting to fill their summer garden with brilliant sunny color! Zones 5-9.

Genus Rosa
Variety 'Golden Showers'
Item Form Bareroot
Zone 5 - 9
Bloom Season Late Spring - Mid Fall
Habit Climbing
Plant Height 6 ft - 8 ft
Additional Characteristics Fragrance, Free Bloomer, Repeat Bloomer, Rose Hips, Bloom First Year, Butterfly Lovers, Double Blooms, Flower
Bloom Color Yellow
Bloom Season Fall
Foliage Color Light Green
Light Requirements Full Sun, Part Shade
Moisture Requirements Moist,  well-drained
Resistance Disease Resistant
Soil Tolerance Normal,  loamy
Uses Border, Cut Flowers, Ornamental, Outdoor
Restrictions Canada, Puerto Rico
Whether you’re deadheading, removing dead wood, or performing an annual pruning, make sure your cuts are no more than ¼ inch (5 mm) above a bud, and slope the cut away from the bud, to prevent water from collecting on it.
  • Your cuts should always be clean, so keep your pruning shears sharp, and use pruning tools that are appropriately sized to whatever size stems you are cutting.

  • To encourage an open-centered form, cut to an outward-facing bud. To encourage upright growth on roses with a spreading habit, prune a few of the stems to inward-facing buds.

  • Prune any dieback to the healthy, white pith.

  • Remove dead or diseased stems, as well as any that cross or are spindly.

  • Your goal should be to have well-spaced stems that allow for a free flow of air.

  • If pruning an established plant, remove any old wood that is flowering poorly, and use a saw to get rid of old stubs that are no longer producing new shoots.

  • Other than climbing roses, you should prune newly planted roses hard, which encourages vigorous shoot production.

  • When removing suckers, trace them back to the roots from which they are growing, and simply take them off.
  • Shop Roses
    • Butterflies like a lot of sunlight, so locate your garden in a sunny area.

    • If you live in a windy location, plant your butterfly-attracting plants near a building, fence, or hedge to protect them.

    • Plant a variety of nectar-rich plants, as well as shrubs and evergreens for shelter.

    • Since many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved, try to put in some that are native to your area. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center provides lists of plants native to states and regions.

    • Certain colors are particularly attracting to butterflies – red, yellow, pink, purple, or orange blooms that are clustered or flat-topped, with a short flower tubes are especially attractive to adult butterflies.

    • Avoid using pesticides, especially around nectar-producing plants.

    • Provide a shallow source of water – try a birdbath with pebbles lining the bowl.

    • Place a rock in a sunny spot for butterfly basking and resting.

    • Create a "puddling area" by digging a shallow hole filled with compost or manure where rainwater will collect and release essential salts and minerals.

    • If you want butterflies to breed in your garden, put in some caterpillar food plants, such as parsley, milkweeds, asters, thistles, violets, clover, grasses, and Queen Anne’s Lace.

    • Since butterflies need nectar throughout the entire adult phase of their lives, try to create a design that will allow for a continuous bloom – when one stops blooming, another starts.
    Rose

    Planting:

    Upon receipt, a bare-rooted Rose should be immersed in water for several hours. Never let the plant dry out after soaking and before planting. If planting is to be delayed several days, keep moist (especially the roots) and store in a cool place. If plant ing is to be delayed a week or more, “heel in” the plant, temporarily cov er ing the roots with moist soil or peat. Plant in the spring in a location with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Roses are widely tolerant of soils, but happiest in a moisture retentive, well-drained soil slightly on the acid side and enhanced with humus or decayed organic matter.

    Space 4 to 10 feet apart, depending on ultimate spread or use. In areas where temperatures drop below 0° F., set so that the bud union (if plants are budded) is 2 inches below ground level; in warmer areas, set so that the union is above or just about at ground level. Meidiland roses are grown on their own roots, and therefore, are not budded. Mound additional soil or compost around canes to a height of 2 inches from the cane ends to prevent moisture loss. When buds start to swell, usually about 7 to 10 days after planting, remove mounded soil or mulch. We recommend a 2-inch year-round mulch over the soil surface. A strong stake is advisable for the taller growing varieties if planted in a location subject to wind.


    Maintenance:

    Many varieties display resistance to pests and disease; however, precautionary mea sures are advisable on a reduced schedule. Fertilize with a standard rose fertilizer after growth has com menced and periodically (as per instructions) up until late summer.

    (Fertilizing in the fall can cause soft growth and subject plants to winter injury.) Prune Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, English, and other modern shrub types in early spring before new growth starts, removing any dead, weak or old wood and cutting the plant by 2/3 to 1/2 its length. Taller, more vigorous varieties can be pruned less to allow them to develop an attractive shrub form; however, flowering may be less continuous. Climbers should be pruned in early spring to remove only a few of the older, thicker canes that no longer flower well.

    The remaining canes can be lightly pruned for shaping as needed. Old-fashioned types that don’t rebloom should only be pruned in midsummer after flowers fade to remove the older, thicker canes and shorten the remaining canes as needed for shaping.


    Winter care for tree roses:

    Once the night temperature averages below freezing for 3 to 4 weeks and the plants become dormant, trim the top canes about 5 or 6 inches. In zones 6 & 7, wrap the entire plant with strips of either burlap or stem-wrapping paper (like used on tree trunks). begin wrapping from the bottom of the trunk, overlapping the layers in and around the graft and the stems at the top of the plant, until only the tips are exposed.

    In zones 4 & 5, wrap trunk and top as described and then staple a cylinder of tar paper around trunk. Then wrap a larger piece of burlap over the entire top of the rose, tying it tightly to keep it in place. Finally, mound 6 to 8 inches of soil around the base of the plant.


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