Sikes Dwarf Hydrangea quercifolia Oakleaf Hydrangea Shrub

Genus	Hydrangea
Species	quercifolia
Variety	Sikes Dwarf
Zone	5 - 9
Bloom Season	Mid Summer - Late Summer
Habit	Dwarf
Plant Height	3 ft - 4 ft
Plant Width	3 ft - 4 ft
Bloom Size	8 in - 12 in
Additional Characteristics	Bloom First Year, Easy Care Plants, Fall Color, Free Bloomer
Bloom Color	Light Green, Light Pink, White
Foliage Color	Burgundy, Dark Green, Red
Light Requirements	Full Sun, Part Shade
Moisture Requirements	Moist,  well-drained
Soil Tolerance	Clay, Normal,  loamy
Uses	Border, Containers, Cut Flowers, Foliage Interest, Hedge
Restrictions	Canada, Guam, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands

How to Adjust Hydrangea Color

Hydrangeas may produce pink, blue, or lavender blooms, depending on where it’s planted and how it’s fed. The presence of aluminum in the plant ultimately determines the color, and pH affects the uptake of aluminum. Alkaline soils, pH of 6.0 or more, are more likely to produce pink blooms, and more acidic soils, pH 4.5 to 5.5, produce blue flowers.

Pink hydrangeas can be turned blue by applying aluminum sulfate to lower the pH and add aluminum to the soil. Applying lime to raise the pH level will help blue hydrangeas turn pink. If your soil naturally produces very blue or very pink hydrangea flowers, you may need to grow your hydrangeas in containers or raised beds to achieve the desired color. If you do attempt to change the color of your blooms by adding these minerals, dilute them well, and add sparingly. It is very easy to scorch your plants by adding too much. White hydrangeas are not affected by efforts to change bloom color.

Using Hydrangeas for Cut-Flower Arrangements

• Cut them just as blooms fully develop.
  
• Cut your flowers in the early morning, before the sun comes up to evaporate some of their moisture.
  
• Cutting at diagonal will allow the stem to take in the most amount of water, some people will even cut slits or fray the ends of the stems a little.
  
• Place your freshly cut flowers in a bucket of cool water to soak for an hour or two before arranging your final product.
  
• Use a commercial floral preservative to get the best results. This will feed your flowers, maintain a constant pH, and will serve as an anti-microbial to prevent premature decay. You should be able to find this at a local nursery.
  
• Keep in mind that many gardeners and florists complain that hydrangeas wilt faster than other cut flowers and may require a little extra planning.
• Keep it out of drafty areas and direct sunlight to prevent the flowers from drying. Finally, you can just sit back and admire your new décor or enjoy your special moment.
  

To download this How-To for yourself, with complete information, please follow this link. Because the file is in PDF format, you will require the Adobe Reader to be able to view it. We hope that you will enjoy this guide and refer to it for years to come.

Hydrangea

Planting:

Space according to ultimate size. Choose a good garden soil, high in organic matter that will help keep ample moisture available to the roots. The location should be sunny or partly shaded, the latter being preferable in dry areas.

If the pH of your soil is too high (alkaline), it can be reduced (made more acidic) by the addition of one tablespoon or more of Aluminum Sulfate per plant – this will make your flowers a deeper blue.

Maintenance:

An annual mulch of compost is beneficial. In very cold or exposed locations, “hill” up the soil and mulch the base of the plant with pine needles or leaves. Most species require little pruning except the removal of dead flower heads after blooming or in early spring.

For H. arborescens, prune the previous year’s flowering wood to the ground in early spring. For H. macrophylla (H. hortensis) and H. serrata, thin out two- or threeyear- old flowering shoots at ground level to promote vigorous new growth. H.petiolaris should be pruned only for aesthetics.

Zones:

Zones various