Lo & Behold™ Blue Chip Butterfly Bush
Buddleia davidii Lo and Behold™ 'Blue Chip' PP#19,991
Plant Patent #19,991. The first in the exciting new Lo & Behold™ series of miniature Buddleias introduced by the Raulston Arboretum, this mounding, well-branched plant reaches less than 2 feet high and wide, yet flowers continuously (rather than in waves) and never needs deadheading. It offers an entirely new form for the beloved Butterfly Bush, and is compact enough for groundcover or container use.
'Blue Chip' reaches less than 24 inches high and wide, yet flowers profusely beginning in early summer (somewhat earlier than many) and continuing without cease into autumn. Unlike most older varieties, 'Blue Chip' concentrates all its energy into flowering, and offers no volunteer sprouts or messy debris to collect at season's end. It doesn't even need deadheading!
Like all Butterfly Bushes, 'Blue Chip' thrives in full sunshine - the more the merrier! - and any well-drained soil. Water and feed it well the first year to get its root system established in your garden. Once it feels at home, it's quite forgiving of heat, humidity, poor soil, and even drought! And it needs no special care beyond a strong pruning in early spring -- cut it down to
- Product Details
- Additional Images
- Customer Reviews
- Care Guide
- Tips to Attract Butterflies
- Deer-resistant Tips
- How to Grow
|Variety||Lo and Behold™ 'Blue Chip'|
|Zone||5 - 9|
|Bloom Season||Early Summer - Mid Fall|
|Plant Height||24 in|
|Plant Width||24 in|
|Additional Characteristics||Butterfly Lovers, Easy Care Plants, Ever Blooming, Fast Growing, Fragrance, Free Bloomer, Long Bloomers|
|Light Requirements||Full Sun|
|Moisture Requirements||Moist, well-drained|
|Resistance||Cold Hardy, Deer Resistance, Drought Tolerant, Heat Tolerant|
|Soil Tolerance||Normal, loamy|
|Uses||Border, Containers, Cut Flowers, Ground Cover|
|Restrictions||Washington, Canada, Guam, Hawaii, Oregon, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands|
How to Plant Your Tree
When planting a new tree, know the strengths and weaknesses of your treevariety. For example, if your tree has delicate leaves placing the trees fully exposed to drying sun and wind will certainly lead to scorched leaves
and a puny trees. Think of your tree's habit and mature size when
planting. You would not want a tree that will be 15' wide in a few
years planted too closely to any permanent structure or other trees.
Choose a place with plenty of room in a partially shaded place,
preferably a spot where your tree can get a nice dose of morning sun
and be protected through the harshest part of those hot summer
Gardeners will often plant their trees in holes that are too deep and too narrow. Roots need access to oxygen and room to grow. Dig a hole about three times the width of the root ball, and the crown (the place where the roots meet the trunk) should be level with the soil surface. If you have clay soil, make sure to break up the sides and bottom of the hole to prevent water from being trapped and rotting your brand new tree. If your tree was in a container, carefully pull apart the roots to ensure that your tree does not become girdled and strangle itself. Recover the soil to the crown, but do not pack it down tightly—loose dirt allows roots to become established.
How to Feed and Water Your Tree
Trees, once established are very low-maintenance for most of the year. Most trees love moisture—during the warmer months, make sure you give your tree a deep watering
about twice a week during hot, dry summers to help it establish strong roots.Some
varieties with more delicate leaves may have a tendency to
dry up and scorch in the summer or freeze in a late frost and scorch.
If you suspect a late frost is headed your way, just go ahead and cover
the more delicate plants in your garden. Deep watering may be your only
hope against drying in the summer.
An all-purpose slow-release fertilizer or rich compost will supply the basic nutrients to feed most trees. Just work the fertilizer into the soil around the tree at the beginning of every season to get the best results.
How to Prune Your Tree
your tree has been properly planted, has established itself, and has
developed a strong root system, the only thing left to do is periodic
pruning and shaping. Pruning maples is really simple. Remove dead or
damaged limbs, and any new growth that appears on the main trunk
(allowing your tree to focus its energy on filling out its distinctly
beautiful branches). You may also want to shorten long limbs that
distract from the overall shape of the tree.
Choosing Tree Varieties to Suit Your Garden
Want to make a dramatic change in the overall look of your garden? Planting a trees is the quickest way to change the look and feel of your garden. Trees add
structure and height, and they have striking presence and
style. A few strategically placed trees in your landscape design can
change the entire look and feel of your yard. Planting a tree provides incredible results for the modest amount money and time
invested, it's good for the environment, and it's fun.
Some of the quickest growers are also the most interesting. Many varieties of dense firs, colorful maples, and wispy willows grow quickly enough to noticeably change the look of your garden in just one season. Fast-growing trees are as functional as they are beautiful—quickly providing privacy screens, shade trees, and dramatic color and fragrance that could take years to achieve with slower varieties.
Landscape Design with Evergreen Trees and Shrubs
Pines, Cypresses, and Thujas grow incredibly fast, and make a great
quick fix for most of your tree-related garden needs. A tall pine, like
a Loblolly or Rock Pine, can reach impressive shade-tree heights in a
third of the time that it would take many deciduous trees to reach the
same height. And the long, dark-green, wispy needles give an
ephemeral—almost mystical—feel, turning your garden into the setting
of a great fairytale. Thujas, also known as Arborvitae, are the
fastest-growing evergreens around. Their dense green foliage is perfect
for blocking outside sights, sounds, and wind—turning your garden into
a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle.
Grow Your Own Fruit
Growing your own fruit is cheaper, more fun, and usually a lot safer than buying fruit from the grocery store. Also, fruit trees are usually very impressive in the garden--they usually have pretty, fragrant blooms, and they attract humming birds and butterflies.
Fruit trees are always popular, but often it takes several years before a tree produces a substantial amount of fruit. There are a few fast-growing fruit tree varieties that produce a useful amount of fruit within a couple seasons. Dwarf citrus trees are small, and mature very fast, but you can only grow these in containers unless you live in a very warm place. Trees from the genus Prunus, like cherries, apricots, plums, and peaches, all grow fairly quickly, and they are so diverse that any gardener will be able to find exactly what they need.
- Butterflies like a lot of sunlight, so locate your garden in a sunny area.
- If you live in a windy location, plant your butterfly-attracting plants near a building, fence, or hedge to protect them.
- Plant a variety of nectar-rich plants, as well as shrubs and evergreens for shelter.
- Since many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved, try to put in some that are native to your area. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center provides lists of plants native to states and regions.
- Certain colors are particularly attracting to butterflies – red, yellow, pink, purple, or orange blooms that are clustered or flat-topped, with a short flower tubes are especially attractive to adult butterflies.
- Avoid using pesticides, especially around nectar-producing plants.
- Provide a shallow source of water – try a birdbath with pebbles lining the bowl.
- Place a rock in a sunny spot for butterfly basking and resting.
- Create a "puddling area" by digging a shallow hole filled with compost or manure where rainwater will collect and release essential salts and minerals.
- If you want butterflies to breed in your garden, put in some caterpillar food plants, such as parsley, milkweeds, asters, thistles, violets, clover, grasses, and Queen Anne’s Lace.
- Since butterflies need nectar throughout the entire adult phase of their lives, try to create a design that will allow for a continuous bloom – when one stops blooming, another starts.
As the deer population has boomed and
food has become scarcer, they have become more aggressive. In some areas deer will
strip your garden bare, leaving nothing green or flowery behind. While there is no such thing as a completely deer-proof garden, there
are some effective things you can do to protect your garden from these
Use physical barriers
A High Fence
Deer can jump pretty high, but a fence higher than eight feet (higher on an up-slope) and flush with the ground will keep any deer out.
They are a much easier and less expensive solution. Deer generally will not try to jump electric fences, but will rather try to climb through the wires, receiving a deterring shock.
An even less extreme physical option is to put bird netting over your larger and more susceptible plants.
Plant Deer-resistant VarietiesHerbs, some conifers, and many flowers are some of the best deer-resistant plants. More fragrant plants will often deter predation. Planting just a few deer-resistant plants will limit grazing of your other plants. Remember, "deer-resistant" does not mean deer-proof. A hungry animal will eat just about anything.
Having a dog In the FamilyOwning a dog, especially a big dog will almost always keep deer from approaching your home. Just the scent of the dog will keep most deer away, and if your dog lives outside you will probably never see any deer.
For most gardeners, it is a combination of different solutions that works best. Every gardener has to find the solution that works best in their garden.
Butterfly Bush, Summer Lilac
B. davidii will adapt easily to almost any good garden soil, so long as they receive full sun.
In the northern portion of the range, Buddleia tend to die back to or near to the ground over the winter. Even in areas where they do not die back, they should be cut back to the ground in the fall or early spring to encourage vigorous spring growth. They break dormancy late in the spring, but with the onset of warm weather will grow rapidly and without attention. Do not overfeed.