Nelly Moser Clematis
Huge 6- to 8-inch single flowers appear most heavily in early summer, then more modestly in early fall. The final flush of bloom is followed by handsome seed heads, which keep this climber interesting until winter.
'Nelly Moser' was introduced in 1897, became an instant favorite, and has never looked back. This climber reaches 6 to 10 feet long and wide (generally larger in the garden than in containers), and demonstrates much better tolerance of shade than most Clematis. In fact, the richest pink tones arise in a bit of shade!
This is a Group II Clematis for pruning purposes. Give it a season or two to find its feet in your garden or container, and then watch it leap up! Very long-lived. Zones 3-9.
- Product Details
- Customer Reviews
- Pruning Group 2 Tips
- Tips to Attract Butterflies
- Deer-resistant Tips
- Pruning Guide
|Zone||3 - 9|
|Bloom Season||Early Summer - Early Fall|
|Clematis Pruning Group||Group 2|
|Plant Height||6 ft - 10 ft|
|Plant Width||6 ft - 10 ft|
|Additional Characteristics||Repeat Bloomer, Rose Companions, Season Extenders, Butterfly Lovers, Free Bloomer, Heirloom, Pruning Recommended, Flower, Long Bloomers|
|Bloom Color||Light Pink, Light Red|
|Foliage Color||Medium Green|
|Light Requirements||Full Sun, Part Shade|
|Moisture Requirements||Moist, well-drained|
|Resistance||Deer Resistance, Heat Tolerant|
|Soil Tolerance||Normal, loamy|
|Uses||Cut Flowers, Border, Outdoor, Vines and Climbers|
|Restrictions||Hawaii, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands, Canada, Guam|
The Big-Flowered Summer Bloomers
Masses of frilly star-shaped blooms; big white snowflakes that blanket the garden twice a season; true-blue color for 4 solid months. The big-flowered, double, and otherwise showy Clematis varieties are among the very best for the garden, and you can master the annual pruning technique in about 3 minutes. First, make sure you've already done the special first- and second-year pruning. Then just maintain your Clematis's beauty as follows:
Group 2 Clematis blooms on "old wood," which simply means stems that grew last season or earlier. (This season's new stems — the ones that grow from spring till the summer bloom season begins — won't flower until next year.) Therefore, you don't want to prune too radically. The rule of thumb is that in late winter or earliest spring, cut back each stem about 6 to 8 inches, to right above the point where it branches. At this branching point, you should see a pair of little bumps. These are buds, and you want to keep them. Find all the branching stems on the Clematis and trim to just above those buds. (You may have read in gardening manuals: "Trim to a pair of strong buds." That's what this process is — the two buds right above the place where each stem branches are the "pair of strong buds" you're looking for! They're easy to see on the slender Clematis stems.)
Once you know your Clematis's pruning number and get that first-year trim out of the way, keeping this woody climber looking its best and blooming like crazy is simple! A few minutes once a year will yield you armloads of flowers for many seasons, and you will continue to find new uses for Clematis, from hiding an unsightly fence to decorating your most formal garden art!
|Shop Clematis||Time to Prune?||Group 1||Group 3|
- Butterflies like a lot of sunlight, so locate your garden in a sunny area.
- If you live in a windy location, plant your butterfly-attracting plants near a building, fence, or hedge to protect them.
- Plant a variety of nectar-rich plants, as well as shrubs and evergreens for shelter.
- Since many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved, try to put in some that are native to your area. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center provides lists of plants native to states and regions.
- Certain colors are particularly attracting to butterflies – red, yellow, pink, purple, or orange blooms that are clustered or flat-topped, with a short flower tubes are especially attractive to adult butterflies.
- Avoid using pesticides, especially around nectar-producing plants.
- Provide a shallow source of water – try a birdbath with pebbles lining the bowl.
- Place a rock in a sunny spot for butterfly basking and resting.
- Create a "puddling area" by digging a shallow hole filled with compost or manure where rainwater will collect and release essential salts and minerals.
- If you want butterflies to breed in your garden, put in some caterpillar food plants, such as parsley, milkweeds, asters, thistles, violets, clover, grasses, and Queen Anne’s Lace.
- Since butterflies need nectar throughout the entire adult phase of their lives, try to create a design that will allow for a continuous bloom – when one stops blooming, another starts.
As the deer population has boomed and
food has become scarcer, they have become more aggressive. In some areas deer will
strip your garden bare, leaving nothing green or flowery behind. While there is no such thing as a completely deer-proof garden, there
are some effective things you can do to protect your garden from these
Use physical barriers
A High Fence
Deer can jump pretty high, but a fence higher than eight feet (higher on an up-slope) and flush with the ground will keep any deer out.
They are a much easier and less expensive solution. Deer generally will not try to jump electric fences, but will rather try to climb through the wires, receiving a deterring shock.
An even less extreme physical option is to put bird netting over your larger and more susceptible plants.
Plant Deer-resistant VarietiesHerbs, some conifers, and many flowers are some of the best deer-resistant plants. More fragrant plants will often deter predation. Planting just a few deer-resistant plants will limit grazing of your other plants. Remember, "deer-resistant" does not mean deer-proof. A hungry animal will eat just about anything.
Having a dog In the FamilyOwning a dog, especially a big dog will almost always keep deer from approaching your home. Just the scent of the dog will keep most deer away, and if your dog lives outside you will probably never see any deer.
For most gardeners, it is a combination of different solutions that works best. Every gardener has to find the solution that works best in their garden.
You’ll find Clematis pruning groups for your specific variety listed in the descriptions in our catalog and online. Follow the pruning guidelines below to get the best bloom show out of your Clematis.
(Bloom in early spring from buds set the previous season on old wood; doesn’t die back in winter)
Prune only when needed, after bloom in spring.
(Usually includes rebloomers that produce flowers on old wood in late spring/early summer and often bloom again on new wood in late summer or fall)
In March, remove dead wood and cut the remaining stems 6 to 8 inches to a pair of strong buds.
(Bloom on new wood in the summer and fall; dies to the ground over winter)
Each year in March, prune all stems back to a strong set of buds 12 inches from the ground.