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Heliopsis 'Asahi'
A sun-loving powerhouse of a perennial with resilience and beauty to spare.
- Genus: Heliopsis
- Species: helianthoides
- Variety: 'Asahi'
- Item Form: Bareroot
- Zone: 3 - 9
- Bloom Start To End: Early Summer - Mid Fall
- Habit: Compact
- Plant Height: 2 ft 4 in - 2 ft 6 in
- Plant Width: 18 in - 24 in
- Additional Characteristics: Bird Lovers, Bloom First Year, Butterfly Lovers, Cut-and-Come-Again, Double Blooms, Easy Care Plants, Free Bloomer, Long Bloomers, Native, Repeat Bloomer, Season Extenders
- Bloom Color: Light Gold, Yellow
- Foliage Color: Medium Green
- Light Requirements: Full Sun
- Moisture Requirements: Dry, Moist, well-drained
- Resistance: Cold Hardy, Disease Resistant, Drought Tolerant, Heat Tolerant, Humidity Tolerant, Pest Resistant
- Soil Tolerance: Clay, Sandy, Poor
- Uses: Beds, Border, Containers, Cut Flowers, Everlastings, Fall Color, Outdoor
- Restrictions:
*Due to state restrictions we cannot ship to the following:
Canada, Guam, Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico - show more
The flowers begin in early summer, as soon as the weather turns warm. A sun-lover, 'Asahi' doesn't mind even unseasonable heat and humidity, and once established in your garden is happy to tough out periods of drought. Its well-branched flowering stems set masses and masses of unusually large blooms with double (or more) the usual number of petals. Instead of the daisy look common to Heliopsis, these are pompons, frilly and petal-packed and glowing!
Expect the blooms to continue throughout summer and well into fall, especially if you deadhead the first few flushes of flowers promptly. The late-season display is just as profuse as the summer show, keeping the garden colorful longer than most other perennials. Cut all you like for fresh and dried arrangements; the flowers are famously long-lasting in the vase, and make vividly-colored Everlastings.
Even out of bloom 'Asahi' is handsome, with very dense dark green foliage and a compact habit just 28 to 30 inches high and 18 to 24 inches wide. It is a fine choice for containers, and will cheerfully self-sow if allowed. (If you do not want it to naturalize, be sure to pick the autumn blooms before they go to seed.) Impervious to most pests and diseases, this native is quite at home in just about any climate and soil, asking only for plenty of sunshine and good soil drainage to grow and flower its best.
Begin 'Asahi' this season in just one container or a small garden grouping. We predict that you will be enamored of its charms and ready to let it multiply in your landscape! Zones 3-9.
- Butterflies like a lot of sunlight, so locate your garden in a sunny area.
- If you live in a windy location, plant your butterfly-attracting plants near a building, fence, or hedge to protect them.
- Plant a variety of nectar-rich plants, as well as shrubs and evergreens for shelter.
- Since many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved, try to put in some that are native to your area. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center provides lists of plants native to states and regions.
- Certain colors are particularly attracting to butterflies – red, yellow, pink, purple, or orange blooms that are clustered or flat-topped, with a short flower tubes are especially attractive to adult butterflies.
- Avoid using pesticides, especially around nectar-producing plants.
- Provide a shallow source of water – try a birdbath with pebbles lining the bowl.
- Place a rock in a sunny spot for butterfly basking and resting.
- Create a "puddling area" by digging a shallow hole filled with compost or manure where rainwater will collect and release essential salts and minerals.
- If you want butterflies to breed in your garden, put in some caterpillar food plants, such as parsley, milkweeds, asters, thistles, violets, clover, grasses, and Queen Anne’s Lace.
- Since butterflies need nectar throughout the entire adult phase of their lives, try to create a design that will allow for a continuous bloom – when one stops blooming, another starts.

As the deer population has boomed and
food has become scarcer, they have become more aggressive. In some areas deer will
strip your garden bare, leaving nothing green or flowery behind. While there is no such thing as a completely deer-proof garden, there
are some effective things you can do to protect your garden from these
hungry animals.
Use physical barriers
A High Fence
Deer can jump pretty high, but a fence higher than eight feet (higher on an up-slope) and flush with the ground will keep any deer out.
Electric Fences
They are a much easier and less expensive solution. Deer generally will not try to jump electric fences, but will rather try to climb through the wires, receiving a deterring shock.
Bird-Netting
An even less extreme physical option is to put bird netting over your larger and more susceptible plants.
Plant Deer-resistant Varieties
Herbs, some conifers, and many flowers are some of the best deer-resistant plants. More fragrant plants will often deter predation. Planting just a few deer-resistant plants will limit grazing of your other plants. Remember, "deer-resistant" does not mean deer-proof. A hungry animal will eat just about anything.Having a dog In the Family

For most gardeners, it is a combination of different solutions that works best. Every gardener has to find the solution that works best in their garden.
Shop All Deer-resistant Plants
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Wayside's horticulturists travel the world in search of new and unusual plant cultivars and proudly offer the garden industry’s most sophisticated selection of high quality and rare perennial plants, bulbs, trees, shrubs, roses, vines, and indoor plants. Beginning with ties to the Dutch family bulb business in Holland, our horticulturists have developed close relationships with perennial and bulb growers throughout the United States and Europe, providing access to many rare and unique garden treasures. Throughout our history we have had the pleasure of introducing numerous exotic foreign and domestic plant cultivars to the American garden market. The Wayside collection of new and exclusive plant products is so preeminent that the catalog has long been lauded in the industry and is even used as a reference work in horticultural schools.Impeccable Quality and Value – We Guarantee It!
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Tips for gardening in particularly hot, dry climates:
2. Watering deeply every 3 to 5 days is preferable to a shallow daily watering.
3. Water in the early morning, so foliage has time to dry.
4. Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch or similar material to aid in water retention and help keep the roots cool during hot weather.
The dry, sparse appearance of bareroot perennials can be alarming to the novice gardener, but in reality ordering bare root is often the smarter choice. Foliage and blooms can be seductive, but the health and long-term potential of a plant truly lies in its roots. Bareroot plants have several advantages over plants in containers—bare roots are less likely to be harmed in the shipping process, their timing is easier to control, and they are field-grown for larger, healthier root systems. This why Wayside Gardens has had great success with bare root plants, and you can too!
It is safer to ship plants in bareroot form because there is no risk in harming new growth, and therefore the plant actually has a better chance of making it safely into the customer’s garden.
And thanks to refrigerated storage, the timing of bareroot perennials can be precisely controlled. "(Bareroot perennials) are dormant," explains JPPA Lead Horticulturist Benjamin Chester, "But as soon as they leave the refrigerated storage they'll begin breaking dormancy." And once the plant 'wakes up', it is ready to begin the growing season in earnest, which means it will quickly catch up to the level of container plants.
The most important benefit of bareroot perennials is that they can be field grown rather than confined to containers. The bareroot Cherry Cheesecake Hibiscus pictured hereperfectly illustrates the difference between a field-grown perennial and a containerized one. Wayside Gardens used to offer this variety in a quart container, like the Monarda next to it. But the Hibiscus was simply too cramped in that space, so Wayside switched to growing it in the earth and selling it bare root. The result is a thick, fibrous mass of roots that used to fill up several cubic feet of soil and which, even in its bare, pruned form would be too large to fit back into the 1 Quart container. What a difference a little space makes! While small and slow-growing cultivars can start well in containers, large and vigorous cultivars need more room to stretch out and develop a solid root system.