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Caladium Fancy-Leaved Mixed Bulbs - Pack of 5

Caladium Fancy-Leaved Mixed Bulbs - Pack of 5

Caladium x hortulanum

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Pack of 5
Item # 07316-PK-5

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Few plants can match the diveristy of color and pattern found in Fancy-Leaved Caladiums -- and with this premium mix you can grow this glorious shade-lover in every form you like! We've selected our favorite, from the most compact (12 inches tall) to the tallest (about 20 inches), in every combination of green, white, pink, and red. From cool-toned frosty leaves with green veining to fiery blood-red foliage bordered in deep green, these varieties are ideal for bed, border, container, and holiday decor!

Caladium is easy to grow and very rewarding. The only thing you can really do wrong is to plant the bulbs too early in spring; they need warm soil, so wait until the garden soil feels pleasantly warm when you sink your index finger into it. Set them "upside down" -- the knobby side up! -- and before you know it, long, furled tendrils will shoot up, each opening to reveal a beautifully patterned, colorful leaf!

Caladiums remain vibrant and attractive for many months, asking only to be dug up before the first hard frost and stored in a cool, dark location until next spring, when they will perform an encore in your garden and containers! Pack of 5 bulbs.

Caladium
Caladium

Planting:

Outdoors, in the south, set out tubers in the spring when daytime temperatures are at least 70° F. Caladiums prefer a rich, sandy, well-drained soil, enhanced with super phosphate and potash; space bulbs 12 inches apart and cover with one inch of soil. Choose a semi- shaded, sheltered location.

Farther north, start in flats or small pots, using 2 to 3 inches of moistened peat moss or a soilless mix as a planting medium. Plant one inch deep with the knobby side up and grow in an area with a temperature of 75 to 80° F., keeping moist. Once rooted, transfer to soil-filled pots; move outdoors to semi-shade once summer has set in. Indoors, grow over the winter in a warm room with high humidity.


Maintenance:

Spray foliage and water plant well during hot, dry weather. Remove flowers to prolong life of leaves. In early autumn, gradually dry out the tubers and store in dry peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite at 60°F.


Zones:

Zone 10

A Tradition of Distinction

Since its founding in 1920, Wayside Gardens has brought the rarest and highest-quality plants to the garden market. Wayside was founded in 1920 by two acclaimed growers who came together to pursue their shared vision of marketing all high-end plants for the serious garden enthusiast. Originally located in Mentor, Ohio, Wayside Gardens swiftly grew a reputation for the highest-quality plants and the most sophisticated clientele. In 1975, Wayside was purchased by the Park Seed Company, and moved to Hodges, SC.  The company has flourished since then, growing to become an undisputed leader in rare and unique plant growing.

Unparalleled Selection

Wayside's horticulturists travel the world in search of new and unusual plant cultivars and proudly offer the garden industry’s most sophisticated selection of high quality and rare perennial plants, bulbs, trees, shrubs, roses, vines, and indoor plants. Beginning with ties to the Dutch family bulb business in Holland, our horticulturists have developed close relationships with perennial and bulb growers throughout the United States and Europe, providing access to many rare and unique garden treasures. Throughout our history we have had the pleasure of introducing numerous exotic foreign and domestic plant cultivars to the American garden market. The Wayside collection of new and exclusive plant products is so preeminent that the catalog has long been lauded in the industry and is even used as a reference work in horticultural schools.

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At Wayside Gardens, “pedigreed plants” and “root strength” have always been watchwords. The Wayside Gardens impeccable plant quality begins with selecting only the finest new product offerings with improved plant features and numerous advantages for our gardening customers. These improved plant selections are then grown to our exacting quality standards by garden industry professionals. This produces superior plants with well developed root systems and healthy, vigorous plant growth habits. That is why we proudly guarantee all Wayside Gardens' products to perform as advertised, being of superior quality, true to type, and shipped properly.

Larger Containers & Well Established Root Systems

We use larger containers and grow bigger plants than other nurseries, leading to greater root strength. Where appropriate, Wayside Gardens propagates our plants vegetatively rather than from seed, to ensure the plants possess the correct form and are true to variety, like a true double form, as opposed to the single or semi-double forms that may result from seed propagation. Because we employ only the finest and most technologically advanced plant growing methods, you can be confident in receiving healthy plants ready to burst forth in glorious growth in your garden.

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Untitled Document Things You'll Need

Overwintering Cannas, Dahlias, Caladiums, Tuberous Begonias, and Elephant Ears


If you live in colder part of the country, many of the lush, tropical beauties we offer will be tender in your zone, unable to survive the winter. Often gardeners will simply grow these beautiful plants as annuals, just enjoying them for one season. But the serious plant enthusiast rises to the challenge and goes the extra mile to let these plants reach their full perennial potential. If you make the effort to overwinter your tender plants, you can enjoy an increasingly beautiful display every season, and your garden will be all the more elite for the inclusion of these exotic perennials.

One way to keep your tender plants growing is to keep them in a pot so that you can move them indoors or shelter them in a greenhouse. This option is easy and convenient, and lets your plants continue to slowly grow throughout the winter, but a greenhouse also involves some start-up costs and requires that your plants all be in containers.

 

1. Dig

Dig 12 inches from the plant's crown

Wait until the bloom show has ended and the foliage has started to die off, towards the end of fall. Your plants will tell you when it is time by dying back and going into dormancy. Once your plants are done for the season, take a pair of clean pruning shears and cut back the foliage to just above the ground (about 6 inches, depending on the plant's height). This will give the plant a clear signal that the season is over and it is time to go into dormancy, if it hasn't already. It is important to use a clean pair of shears to avoid introducing rot—rot is your biggest enemy throughout this process, so clean your shears with alcohol to be extra careful.

Now you are ready to dig up your tuber. Move about a foot away from the crown and dig down deep to get underneath of it. Be careful not to pierce the tubers, because again that can promote rot. Circle the plant, loosening up the soil, and then gently lift it out of the ground. Rinse off any remaining soil until you can see all the tubers hanging from the stalks. Cut off any tubers that look rotten, to keep the rot from spreading.

 

2. Divide

Divide the Tuber into Segments

Next it is time to divide up the plant. This will help it grow healthier next year, and it means that you get more specimens to grace your garden!

First identify the eyes—these can vary from species to species, but they look similar to the eyes of a potato, and this is where new growth will come from next year. Cut up the plant into segments, trying to leave the individual tubers as intact as possible, and make sure that each division has at least one eye.

 

 

3. Dry

Dry Your Tubers in a Box.

Now set the tubers out to dry. Leave them out at least 3 days until they are thoroughly dry. Placing them on cardboard can help. Getting the tubers dry will prevent them from rotting.

Lastly, you want to put your dried tubers away for the winter. A cardboard box, wooden box, or basket are all great storage places, as they allow some ventilation. Place the tubers in a medium, like wood chips, sand, or vermiculite, which will insulate and help to prevent rot. This medium should be just slightly moist to keep the tubers from drying out TOO much over winter.

Then place your box in a dark, cool place (50 degrees at most, 35 degrees at the least) over winter. A cellar, garage, basement, or even dark closet might work—if all else fails, set a small refrigerator to 45 degrees and store your overwinter plants there. Don’t forget to label your box so you know what varieties are in it! Check in on your tubers just a few times throughout the winter to make sure they are not rotting or getting too shriveled up. A little bit of shriveling is normal, but if they seem very dry, give them a spritz of water. Remember that the tuber stops "drinking" during dormancy, so they just need a small amount of water to keep them from completely drying out. And if you see signs of rot, throw those tubers out.



That is all there is to it! Next spring you should (fingers crossed) have more healthy plants than ever before, ready to provide you another long season of beauty! You can also get the jump on the season by starting your plants indoors about a month early. Start with a few hours of indirect sunlight and let them adjust slowly to light again before you plant them out.

 

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