A great size for containers, 'Sweetheart' flourishes in part to full shade in any garden setting, and makes a super holiday houseplant.

Fancy-leafed Caladiums are a gardener's best friend; they have no natural enemies and grow contentedly in any rich soil. Just plant the bulb in warm (75 to 85 degrees F) conditions and watch it flourish with huge, wide-open leaves smattered with Christmas colors. Terrific as a bedding plant in any shady spot, they also make splendid winter houseplants. We sell only fine Number 1 bulbs, large, healthy, and guaranteed to grow true to name.

Plant one bulb to a 6-inch pot filled with a loose potting mixture which barely covers the bulb. Water and place in a location where it will receive gentle bottom heat and low light intensity. Once growth is observed, move it into defused light for several days so the new tender growth is not scorched. Then place in an area with 3 to 4 hours of sun light to grow on and flower. Water sparingly until growth starts, then keep well watered and fertilized in a warm room through period of active growth. Feed with a general -purpose, liquid houseplant fertilizer. They like being moved outside for the summer grow on. As the plant completes its growth cycle and begins to go dormant, gradually withhold water. Most Zantedeschias need a 3 month dormancy, but Z. aethiopica can be grown continuously without rest. Above Zone 8, bring indoors for winter.

In warmer areas, they may be grown as a garden bulb and left in the ground over winter. A site with good drainage should be selected and the soil well enriched with organic matter. They like full sun further north and half shade in Zones 9 and 10. Plant bulbs with about 3 to 4 inches of soil over the top of the bulb, setting bulbs 12 or more inches apart. A winter mulch is recommended in Zone 7.

After first blooms fade, cut the blossom stalks off at the base to encourage reblooming. Keep well fertilized and watered during growth. Where it isn’t hardy, dig bulbs in fall, dry for several days, and store in a box or paper bag in dry peat moss or dry potting soil at 40-50°F for the winter.

Zones 7 (with protection) to 10.

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Overwintering Cannas, Dahlias, Caladiums, Tuberous Begonias, and Elephant Ears

If you live in colder part of the country, many of the lush, tropical beauties we offer will be tender in your zone, unable to survive the winter. Often gardeners will simply grow these beautiful plants as annuals, just enjoying them for one season. But the serious plant enthusiast rises to the challenge and goes the extra mile to let these plants reach their full perennial potential. If you make the effort to overwinter your tender plants, you can enjoy an increasingly beautiful display every season, and your garden will be all the more elite for the inclusion of these exotic perennials.

1. Dig

Wait until the bloom show has ended and the foliage has started to die off, towards the end of fall. Your plants will tell you when it is time by dying back and going into dormancy. Once your plants are done for the season, take a pair of clean pruning shears and cut back the foliage to just above the ground (about 6 inches, depending on the plant's height). This will give the plant a clear signal that the season is over and it is time to go into dormancy, if it hasn't already. It is important to use a clean pair of shears to avoid introducing rot—rot is your biggest enemy throughout this process, so clean your shears with alcohol to be extra careful.

Now you are ready to dig up your tuber. Move about a foot away from the crown and dig down deep to get underneath of it. Be careful not to pierce the tubers, because again that can promote rot. Circle the plant, loosening up the soil, and then gently lift it out of the ground. Rinse off any remaining soil until you can see all the tubers hanging from the stalks. Cut off any tubers that look rotten, to keep the rot from spreading.

2. Divide

Next it is time to divide up the plant. This will help it grow healthier next year, and it means that you get more specimens to grace your garden!

First identify the eyes—these can vary from species to species, but they look similar to the eyes of a potato, and this is where new growth will come from next year. Cut up the plant into segments, trying to leave the individual tubers as intact as possible, and make sure that each division has at least one eye.

3. Dry

Now set the tubers out to dry. Leave them out at least 3 days until they are thoroughly dry. Placing them on cardboard can help. Getting the tubers dry will prevent them from rotting.

Then place your box in a dark, cool place (50 degrees at most, 35 degrees at the least) over winter. A cellar, garage, basement, or even dark closet might work—if all else fails, set a small refrigerator to 45 degrees and store your overwinter plants there. Don’t forget to label your box so you know what varieties are in it! Check in on your tubers just a few times throughout the winter to make sure they are not rotting or getting too shriveled up. A little bit of shriveling is normal, but if they seem very dry, give them a spritz of water. Remember that the tuber stops "drinking" during dormancy, so they just need a small amount of water to keep them from completely drying out. And if you see signs of rot, throw those tubers out.

That is all there is to it! Next spring you should (fingers crossed) have more healthy plants than ever before, ready to provide you another long season of beauty! You can also get the jump on the season by starting your plants indoors about a month early. Start with a few hours of indirect sunlight and let them adjust slowly to light again before you plant them out.