Paeonia 'Coral Charm'

Note: Fall shipping for all Peony will be early-mid October.

A color breakthrough for peonies. When this magnificent semidouble was introduced, it won the 1986 Gold Medal of the American Peony Society, and has been winning hearts ever since. The deep coral buds—beautiful in themselves—open to bowl-shaped blooms with gracefully incurved petals of coral-peach surrounding a frilly, glowing mass of stamens. 5 to 6 inches across and very long-lasting fresh or cut, these mid-spring blooms are the focal point of any garden setting.

One of the few peonies to flourish in the southern end of its hardiness range, 'Coral Charm' is an exceptionally robust garden plant, reaching 36 inches tall and covered with blooms. Its lovely foliage forms a nice backdrop for daffodils and a foreground for mid-to late-summer lilies.

Plant 'Coral Charm' in full sun and well-drained, moisture-retentive soil well enriched with organics. If planting more than one, space them about 3 1/2 to 4 feet apart. Hardy in Zones 3-8.

The merits of peonies are virtually endless. First, they are exceptionally hardy—easy to grow and carefree once established. One of the longest-lived perennials, a single plant can last for generations, blooming as reliably in its 50th year as it did in its 3rd.

Second, their phenol content makes them unappetizing to pests, including insects, rabbits, and even deer. Remarkably disease-free as well, they literally need no attention once established.

Third, they truly offer three seasons of color. The new spring foliage is reddish; the bright blooms span late spring and early summer; and the fall foliage is tinged with bronze or purple tones.

Fourth, they are equally suited for the landscape or the vase, offering old-fashioned cottage garden charm plus armloads of stunning blooms. Very long-lived in the vase, the flowers can even be upended and dried for use as everlastings (the red and pink singles are best for this—their color and petals outlast those of their paler, double cousins). Mature plants have a pleasingly rounded, plump form, and the foliage stays fresh even in the dog days of August.

Fifth—but you already know this—the blooms are out-of-this-world lovely in color, fragrance, and form. As showy as roses and vastly easier to grow and care for, they are the unsung heroes of the flowering garden.

Peonies are a nice "bridge" plant in the garden, looking something like a perennial and something like a shrub. They have enough height to form a good backdrop to low-growing and petite annuals and perennials, yet are compact enough for a slender border or corner display. Planted in front of large shrubs or trees, they make a big splash of color without occupying a lot of space.

Traditional companions to peonies are spring- and summer-flowering bulbs (because peonies' lush foliage nicely hides the slumping stalks after the bulbs have bloomed), blue- and white-flowered perennials, larger flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons, part-shade plants such as epimedium and helleborus, and ornamental grasses.

• Butterflies like a lot of sunlight, so locate your garden in a sunny area.
• If you live in a windy location, plant your butterfly-attracting plants near a building, fence, or hedge to protect them.
• Plant a variety of nectar-rich plants, as well as shrubs and evergreens for shelter.
• Since many butterflies and native flowering plants have co-evolved, try to put in some that are native to your area. The Lady Bird Johnson Wildlife Center provides lists of plants native to states and regions.
• Certain colors are particularly attracting to butterflies – red, yellow, pink, purple, or orange blooms that are clustered or flat-topped, with a short flower tubes are especially attractive to adult butterflies.
• Avoid using pesticides, especially around nectar-producing plants.
• Provide a shallow source of water – try a birdbath with pebbles lining the bowl.
• Place a rock in a sunny spot for butterfly basking and resting.
• Create a "puddling area" by digging a shallow hole filled with compost or manure where rainwater will collect and release essential salts and minerals.
• If you want butterflies to breed in your garden, put in some caterpillar food plants, such as parsley, milkweeds, asters, thistles, violets, clover, grasses, and Queen Anne’s Lace.
• Since butterflies need nectar throughout the entire adult phase of their lives, try to create a design that will allow for a continuous bloom – when one stops blooming, another starts.

As the deer population has boomed and food has become scarcer, they have become more aggressive. In some areas deer will strip your garden bare, leaving nothing green or flowery behind. While there is no such thing as a completely deer-proof garden, there are some effective things you can do to protect your garden from these hungry animals.

Use physical barriers

A High Fence
Deer can jump pretty high, but a fence higher than eight feet (higher on an up-slope) and flush with the ground will keep any deer out.

Electric Fences
They are a much easier and less expensive solution. Deer generally will not try to jump electric fences, but will rather try to climb through the wires, receiving a deterring shock.

Bird-Netting
An even less extreme physical option is to put bird netting over your larger and more susceptible plants.

Plant Deer-resistant Varieties

Herbs, some conifers, and many flowers are some of the best deer-resistant plants. More fragrant plants will often deter predation. Planting just a few deer-resistant plants will limit grazing of your other plants. Remember, "deer-resistant" does not mean deer-proof. A hungry animal will eat just about anything.

Having a dog In the Family

Owning a dog, especially a big dog will almost always keep deer from approaching your home. Just the scent of the dog will keep most deer away, and if your dog lives outside you will probably never see any deer.

For most gardeners, it is a combination of different solutions that works best. Every gardener has to find the solution that works best in their garden.

Shop All Deer-resistant Plants

Paeonia
Peony

Planting:

Space plants 3 ft apart in full sun or light shade, the latter being preferable in southernmost zones. The ideal soil is rich and moisture retentive, but well drained.

When planting, set the root clumps in the hole so that the “eyes” or growing points are covered with no more than 1-2 inches of soil. Do not plant too deeply or your peony will not prosper.

Maintenance:

It is vital that these plants be kept well watered during their growing season. As peonies are heavy feeders, fertilize each spring with a high phosphorous fertilizer after growth has started. When cutting, remove as little foliage as possible, since the leaves are necessary for plant growth and vigor.

Remove spent flowers and, in the fall, cut back dead foliage. Established plants prefer not to be moved. In situations exposed to heavy winds, staking or a plant support hoop may be necessary.

Zones:

Zones 3-8

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